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All 108 questions from across the site, grouped by topic. Each group links to the page it came from, where the answer sits in full context.
If your question is not here, ask it. We reply within eight working hours, and good questions get added to this page.
Across Indochina
Do you sell tours directly, or only through agents?
Both. Individual travellers book with us directly, and we also handle ground arrangements for a small number of overseas agents. The price you see quoted is the direct price.
Can a trip cover all three countries in two weeks?
It can, and we run exactly that as a fifteen-day route. Under fourteen days we would rather you did two countries well. Three countries in ten days is four internal flights and very little else.
How far ahead should I book?
For travel between November and March, three to five months. Outside that window six to eight weeks is usually enough, except around Tet, when hotels and domestic flights in Vietnam sell out early and prices rise sharply.
Are your prices in USD binding?
The quote is binding once you accept it and pay the deposit, apart from government fees and domestic airfares, which we pass through at cost and reconcile before final payment.
Read in full: Across Indochina.
Tours
Can any of these run on my own dates?
Yes. Every route on this page runs privately on the dates you choose, for two travellers upwards. The fixed departures exist only for people who want to travel with others and share the cost.
How many people are on a set departure?
Between four and twelve. Below four we contact everyone booked and either run it as a smaller trip at the same price or offer a date change, and we tell you which within six weeks of departure.
Are single travellers welcome?
Yes, on both private and set departures. A single room supplement applies and is shown as its own line in the quote rather than folded into the price.
Can we combine two of these routes?
Often, but not by simply adding the days together. Two routes joined usually repeat a city and waste a domestic flight, so we redraw the middle rather than glue the ends.
Read in full: Tours.
Classic Indochina
Why Lan Ha Bay rather than Ha Long Bay?
They are the same body of water, divided by an administrative line. Lan Ha is entered from Haiphong and takes a small share of the boat traffic, so the anchorages are quieter for the same scenery. If you specifically want the Ha Long name on your itinerary, say so and we will switch it.
Is three internal flights avoidable?
Two of them are not, unless you have another week. Hanoi to Hue can be driven or taken by train, and the overnight train is a genuine option some people enjoy; it costs a day and we will price it either way.
What happens if a flight is cancelled mid-trip?
Our office in the country you are in rebooks it and moves the ground arrangements the same day. Because we hold the vehicle and guide contracts ourselves rather than through a wholesaler, that is a phone call rather than a negotiation.
Can children come on this route?
From about ten upwards it works. Below that the flights and the temple days are a lot, and the eleven-day family route is built differently, with shorter drives and fewer early starts.
Read in full: Classic Indochina.
Vietnam north to south
Is the overnight train to Hue worth taking instead of the flight?
Some people love it and some sleep badly and lose a day. The soft-sleeper cabins are clean and the coastal section after dawn is the best rail scenery in the country. It saves a little money, costs half a day, and we price it either way without arguing for one.
Why only one night in Ho Chi Minh City?
Because the delta is better and the city is easy to add at either end. If your interest is the war, the Cu Chi tunnels and a second museum day, tell us and we will make it two nights and drop a night in Hoi An.
How hot does it get?
The south runs 30 to 34 degrees most of the year with high humidity. The centre is similar from May to August. Hanoi in January can sit at 15 degrees and feel colder indoors, because northern hotels are built to lose heat, not keep it.
Can we finish in Ho Chi Minh City rather than flying home from there?
Yes. This route ends in the south precisely so it can continue into Cambodia by air or by boat up the Mekong. Adding Phnom Penh and Angkor takes six more days.
Read in full: Vietnam north to south.
Prices
Why is your quote higher than the one I have from another operator?
Usually one of three reasons: we have quoted more guide days, we have named hotels in a band the other quote left open, or the other quote passes a domestic flight at a marked-up fare while we pass it at cost.
Send us the other itinerary. We will tell you line by line where the difference is, and if it turns out they are offering the same thing for less, we will say so.
Do you mark up domestic flights?
No. They are booked at cost, shown as their own line, and reconciled before your final payment. If a fare drops between quoting and ticketing, the saving is yours.
Is the price fixed once I accept it?
Ground costs are fixed once the deposit is paid. Domestic airfares and government fees are passed through, so they can move slightly in either direction until tickets are issued.
Do you offer a discount for a larger group?
It is not a discount, it is arithmetic: the vehicle and guide cost is divided by more people. Our price table shows the per-person figure at two, four and six travellers so you can see exactly where it lands.
Read in full: Prices.
Destinations
Can I see all three countries in ten days?
Physically yes, usefully no. Ten days across three countries is three internal flights plus three hotel changes, which leaves roughly four full days on the ground. We would rather run two countries at that length, and we will say so before you book.
Which country is best for a first trip to the region?
Vietnam, for most people. It has the most range in a single country, the best internal transport and the most food, and it is forgiving if your plans change mid-trip. Cambodia and Laos are better second trips, or better first trips if what you want is fewer places and more time in each.
Are these three countries expensive?
On the ground they are among the cheaper places in Asia to eat and move around, and mid-range hotels are good value. The costs that surprise people are entrance fees in Cambodia, domestic flights in Vietnam during Tet, and boat charters anywhere.
Do I need a separate visa for each country?
Yes. There is no shared Indochina visa. Vietnam uses an online e-visa, Cambodia issues both an e-visa and a visa on arrival, and Laos issues a visa on arrival at its international airports and main land borders. Fees and validity differ by passport, and we send a written summary for each traveller before you book flights.
Read in full: Destinations.
Vietnam
Is Vietnam better in the north or the south?
They are different countries in most of the ways that matter to a traveller — climate, food, pace, architecture. If you have to choose one, the north has more variety within a short radius and a real winter, and the south has the delta, the best year-round weather from December to March, and the more relaxed cities.
Do I need a visa for Vietnam?
Most nationalities do, and it is an online e-visa valid up to 90 days, usually issued in about three working days. A small number of passports have short visa-free entry. We send a written note for each traveller's nationality before you book flights, but the application itself is yours to make on the official government site.
How bad is the traffic really?
In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City it is dense rather than fast, and crossing a road on foot is a skill that takes a day to learn. It affects planning mainly at the edges of the day: an airport transfer that takes 50 minutes at midday takes 80 at six in the evening, and we build that into the timings rather than hoping.
Can I drink the tap water?
No. Bottled or filtered water only, and our vehicles carry it. Ice in restaurants and established street kitchens is made commercially and is generally fine; food from a busy stall is safer than food from a quiet one, because the turnover is higher.
Read in full: Vietnam.
Cambodia
Is two days enough for Angkor?
Two days covers the main group and leaves you tired. Three nights in Siem Reap with two temple mornings and one late afternoon is the version we book, because the temples are best before nine and after four, and the middle of the day is better spent in a pool than on a causeway.
Is the sunrise at Angkor Wat worth it?
It depends what you want. From November to February several hundred people line the northern pond before six in the morning, and the photograph you have seen is taken from within that crowd. The light at Ta Prohm or Preah Khan at the same hour is better and you will have it nearly to yourself. We offer both and describe both honestly.
Which floating village is the real one?
Kampong Phluk and Kampong Khleang are working communities where people live year-round and the boats belong to families; Chong Kneas, the closest to town, is heavily set up for visitors. We use the further ones, which costs an extra hour of driving each way.
Is Cambodia safe to travel in?
For ordinary tourism, yes, with normal city caution in Phnom Penh, particularly with bags on the riverfront at night. The one thing worth taking seriously outside towns is unexploded ordnance in a few rural provinces: stay on marked paths and do not wander into fields, which is advice your guide will repeat.
Read in full: Cambodia.
Laos
How many nights do I need in Luang Prabang?
Three. One day covers the town and the Kuang Si falls badly; two days cover them properly and leave a morning on the river; the third is the one where the place stops being a sightseeing list. If your trip only has room for two, we will still book it, and we will tell you what you are giving up.
Should I watch the alms round?
Only if you are willing to do it properly: from across the street, seated or standing still, no flash, no camera close to anyone's face, and no buying of food from the stalls set up to sell it to visitors. It is a religious obligation performed daily, not a performance. Our guides explain the etiquette the evening before, and some guests decide to sleep in instead.
Is the train better than flying between Vientiane and Luang Prabang?
For most trips, yes. Two hours on the ground beats a flight once you count airport time, it costs a fraction as much, and the mountain section is worth seeing. The catch is availability: seats release a limited number of days ahead and sell out in high season, so it has to be booked as soon as your dates are fixed.
Is Laos expensive compared to Vietnam and Cambodia?
Food and local transport are cheaper. Hotels in Luang Prabang are not — the old quarter has a fixed number of protected buildings and demand outruns them from November to February. Boat charters are also charged per boat rather than per person, which makes them good value for four and expensive for two.
Read in full: Laos.
Hanoi
Is three nights in Hanoi too many if I am also doing Ha Long or Lan Ha Bay?
No, because the bay trip eats the middle of two days rather than a whole one. A boat leaves the pier around noon and returns to it before noon two days later, so a three-night Hanoi stay plus one night aboard occupies five nights in total and still leaves two clear city days.
Which part of the city should I sleep in?
The old quarter if you want to walk out into it, which is most people, accepting the noise. The French quarter if you want wider streets and quiet, at the cost of a ten-minute walk each way. Tay Ho only if you are staying a week or travelling with small children who nap in the afternoon.
Is the street food safe?
At a busy stall, yes, and the busy ones are busy for a reason: the pot turns over in two hours. What causes trouble is not the food but iced drinks at quiet places and raw herbs washed in water you would not drink. Eat where the queue is local, and take the herbs cooked for the first two days.
Do I need a guide for the old quarter?
For a first morning, it pays for itself. The quarter does not explain itself to a visitor: the guild streets, the ancestral altars behind the shopfronts and the way a tube house works are invisible without someone pointing at them. After that morning most people are happy alone.
Read in full: Hanoi.
Lan Ha Bay
Is Lan Ha better than Ha Long Bay?
The scenery is identical because it is the same karst field. Lan Ha carries far fewer boats, so the anchorages are quieter and the caves are not queued. That is the only real difference, and for most people it is the one that matters.
Can I put Ha Long Bay on my itinerary instead?
Yes, and some people want the name on the document. Say so and we will book a boat from the Quang Ninh side at a similar standard. The drive is about half an hour longer and the anchorages are busier.
What actually happens on a one-night cruise?
Board around noon, lunch while the boat moves out, kayak or swim in the afternoon, sunset at anchor, dinner aboard, then a quiet evening because there is nowhere to go. Next morning there is a cave or a beach before an early brunch, and you are back at the pier by eleven.
Are the boats safe?
Licensed overnight boats are inspected and carry life jackets in every cabin and on deck. The parts to check are the age of the hull, whether the operator runs its own boat or sells cabins on someone else's, and where it overnights. We charter from a short list and can tell you the boat name before you pay.
Read in full: Lan Ha Bay.
Hoi An
Should I stay in the old town itself?
Only a handful of small hotels are inside the protected core, and they are quiet at night but hemmed in by day. Most people do better five to fifteen minutes out, where there is a pool and a garden, and walk or cycle in twice a day.
Is the old town ticket compulsory?
You buy it to enter the heritage houses, assembly halls and the covered bridge. Walking the streets, eating and shopping do not require it in practice, though ticket desks are placed at the main entrances and you will be asked. It is under five dollars and the money goes to the conservation fund.
Can I combine Hoi An with Hue in one stay?
You can day-trip between them in three and a half hours each way, but it wastes the best part of both. Two nights in Hue and three in Hoi An, with the pass drive as the transfer, gives you the same ground for the same money and no repeated journeys.
Is My Son worth half a day?
If you have not seen Cham or Khmer architecture before, yes, and it is the best surviving Cham site in Vietnam. If Angkor is later in your trip, My Son will look modest afterwards, so see it first or not at all. Go at 06:30 or after 15:00; the bowl it sits in is airless at midday.
Read in full: Hoi An.
Mekong Delta
Is the day trip from Ho Chi Minh City worth doing at all?
If you have literally one spare day and will not otherwise see the river, it shows you something. Expect a fixed sequence of stops shared with several hundred other people and treat it as a sample rather than a visit. Two nights further down is a different experience entirely.
Are the floating markets still real?
Cai Rang is, in the wholesale hours before about 08:00, and it is smaller than it was because roads took the trade. Phong Dien is smaller and more local. Cai Be near My Tho is now largely arranged for visitors, and we would not send you there for the market itself.
Homestay or hotel?
One night of each is the pattern that works. Homestays give you the food and the family, with thin walls, fans rather than air conditioning in the cheaper ones, and an early start whether you wanted one or not. After two nights of that most people want a real bathroom.
Can I get from the delta into Cambodia?
Yes, by river from Chau Doc through the Vinh Xuong border to Phnom Penh, taking five to eight hours depending on the boat and the queue at immigration. It needs a Cambodian visa arranged in advance for most nationalities, and it is the most interesting way to make that crossing.
Read in full: Mekong Delta.
Siem Reap
Is the Angkor Wat sunrise worth it?
Once, if you accept the crowd. Get there by 05:00 for a place at the northern pond, and leave by 06:30 while everyone else goes to breakfast, which is when the temple itself is at its emptiest. If you would rather not, the same building at 16:30 with the western light on it is the better photograph anyway.
How many temples is too many?
Most people reach their limit somewhere in the middle of day two. That is why we build two temple days with the middle of each at the hotel, and leave the third day open. Pushing past the limit means you stop seeing what you are looking at.
Do I need the three-day pass?
If you are staying three nights, yes. It costs USD 25 more than the single day and it removes the pressure to see everything before dark. The seven-day pass makes sense only for people who are coming back mid-trip or who have a specific interest.
Is it safe to walk around town at night?
Yes, in the central area, and it is busy until late. Ordinary care applies: bag-snatching from passing motorbikes happens on quiet streets, so keep bags on the inside shoulder and use a tuk-tuk rather than walking back alone along the river after midnight.
Read in full: Siem Reap.
Luang Prabang
Should I watch the alms round?
Only from a distance, without flash, standing across the street and not kneeling in the line. Do not buy rice from the street vendors to offer, because the quality is poor and the monks cannot refuse it. If any of that feels uncomfortable, skip it entirely and go to the morning market instead, which starts at the same hour and is a better window on the town anyway.
Is the train from Vientiane better than flying?
For most people, yes. It takes about two hours, it is comfortable, and it climbs through country you cannot otherwise see. Build in the transfer to the station, which is twelve kilometres out, and book several days ahead in high season because the trains do sell out.
Can I do Kuang Si and Pak Ou on the same day?
Physically yes, and it is a wasted day. They are in opposite directions, both are river-paced, and compressing them means two hours of driving in the middle and neither done properly. It is the clearest argument for the third night.
Is Luang Prabang expensive compared with Vietnam?
Hotels cost roughly the same, food costs a little more because much of it is imported, and internal transport is markedly more expensive because the distances are long and the roads are slow. The saving is that you need fewer moving parts here than anywhere else in the region.
Read in full: Luang Prabang.
When to go
Is there one month that works for all three countries?
November comes closest. Northern Vietnam is dry and clear, Laos has come out of the monsoon with the river still high, and Cambodia is entering its best stretch. The weak point is central Vietnam, which can still be in the tail of the storm season in the first half of the month.
Will rain ruin a trip in the wet season?
Rarely, outside the central Vietnam storm months. Wet-season rain in the south, in Cambodia and in Laos is an intense afternoon event rather than all-day drizzle, and we plan the day around it. What you should expect is one rearranged day in a two-week trip, not a ruined fortnight.
How much cheaper is low season?
Land costs drop roughly 15 to 25 per cent between May and September, driven mostly by hotel rates. Guides, vehicles and entrance fees do not change. The saving is larger at the top end, because luxury properties discount more steeply than mid-range ones.
When should I book for the November to March peak?
Three to five months ahead for those dates, and earlier if you want specific hotels in Hoi An or Luang Prabang, which are small and fill first. Outside the peak, six to eight weeks is usually enough.
Read in full: When to go.
How many days
Can I see Vietnam properly in a week?
You can see one region properly in a week. The north with Hanoi and the bay, or the centre with Hue and Hoi An, both work well in seven days on the ground. What does not work is north to south in a week, which is two internal flights and three hotel check-ins in six usable days.
Is Angkor worth three days or is one enough?
One day covers Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm, and many people do exactly that. Three days lets you go out at 06:00, come back through the worst of the heat, and return in the late afternoon, which is when the temples are best. It also reaches Banteay Srei and the outer group, which a one-day visit never does.
Do you count the arrival day as a day?
We count it, but we do not schedule it. Most long-haul arrivals land in the morning after an overnight flight, and we leave that afternoon free. When we say a fifteen-day trip, that is fifteen days on the ground, of which roughly thirteen are usable.
What if I only have ten days and want all three countries?
We will say no, and explain why: four internal flights inside eight usable days leaves no stop longer than one night. We will then offer two countries in the same ten days, which costs less and is a better trip. If three countries is non-negotiable, another operator will sell it to you.
Read in full: How many days.
Private or group
How many people are usually on a group departure?
Seven or eight is the average. Twelve is the cap and it is genuinely a cap, not a target we push past for one more booking. If fewer than four are booked six weeks before departure we contact everyone and either run it smaller at the same price or offer a date change.
Can we join a group departure and then break off for two days?
Yes, and people do. It is priced as the group departure plus a private vehicle and guide for the days you leave the group. Say so at booking rather than in country, because the hotel nights have to be held either way.
Is a private trip always more expensive?
Not at six travellers or more. At that size the vehicle, guide and boat costs divide the same way they do in a group of twelve, and the two prices converge. The gap is real for couples and solo travellers and small for everyone else.
Who else will be on my group departure?
Most often couples and solo travellers between their late thirties and late sixties, from Britain, France, Australia, the Netherlands and North America. We can tell you the age range and nationalities of anyone already booked on your date before you commit, without naming them.
Read in full: Private or group.
Visas and entry
Do you arrange visas for your guests?
No. We send you the official application route for each country on your itinerary, along with the hotel addresses, dates and confirmation letter that the forms ask for. We do not apply on your behalf, hold passports, or take a commission from any visa service. The application is yours to make and the rules should be confirmed with the relevant embassy or consulate before you fly.
Is one visa enough for all three countries?
No. Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos each issue their own visa with its own fee, validity and application route. There is no combined Indochina visa, and a visa for one country gives you no rights in another.
How far ahead should I apply?
Start as soon as your international flights are ticketed, and aim to hold every approval at least three weeks before departure. Electronic approvals are often issued within days, but systems go offline, applications are returned for photograph problems, and a rejected application needs time to correct.
What if the rules change between booking and travelling?
We re-check the official sources in the month before departure and write to you if anything relevant has moved. That is a courtesy and not a guarantee, so please check again yourself in the same period. If a change makes a route impossible we will redraw the itinerary rather than let you travel into a problem.
Read in full: Visas and entry.
Responsible travel
Will you arrange an elephant ride if I insist?
No. We explain the reasons once and then decline, and that applies to riding, to visitor bathing programmes and to any venue where elephants perform. We will arrange observation at a small number of sanctuaries we have visited unannounced where none of those things happen.
Can we visit a school or orphanage and bring supplies?
We do not arrange those visits, including ones framed around a donation. If you want your money to help, ask us and we will name registered organisations in each country working on family-based care and education, and you can give directly without a visit being built around it.
Do you offset the carbon from the trip?
No, because we cannot verify most of the schemes available to us and we would rather not sell something we cannot stand behind. We reduce internal flights where a route allows it and we tell you when a domestic flight could be replaced by a road day.
How do I know any of this is true?
Ask for the supplier breakdown of your own quote, which names hotels, guide days and day rates. Ask your guide directly what they are paid and how many days they worked last month. Both are checkable while you are on the trip, which is the only reason to publish figures at all.
Read in full: Responsible travel.
About us
Can I see your operating licence?
Ask for it by email and we will send the licence details in writing, together with the company name the licence is held in, so you can check it rather than take a number printed on a web page on trust.
Can I speak to someone who has travelled with you before?
Yes, and we prefer it to reviews. Tell us the route and the country you are writing from, we ask two or three past guests for permission, and you talk to whoever agrees without us on the thread.
If nobody who matches your route and language has agreed to be contacted, we will tell you that plainly instead of offering a loose substitute.
Do you use subcontractors in Cambodia and Laos?
We contract drivers, guides and boats directly in both countries, as we do in Vietnam. Hotels are booked rather than owned. Specialist activities such as a cooking school or a permitted temple photographer are run by the specialist, and those appear as named lines in your quote.
What happens if my planner is unavailable during my trip?
The 24-hour number for the region is answered by someone with your itinerary in front of them, and it is a different line from the planning number for exactly this reason. Your planner also leaves a written handover for every trip in the field.
Read in full: About us.
Contact
Do you take phone calls before I have booked?
Yes. Send two or three times that suit you with your time zone, and your planner will call. We ask for a written outline first so the call is about decisions rather than spelling out place names.
Is WhatsApp answered as quickly as email?
During Hanoi office hours, faster. Outside them, email is safer, because a WhatsApp message sent at midnight our time can sit under later messages. Anything about money or dates we confirm by email regardless of where the conversation happened.
Can I visit your office?
You are welcome to, with a day's notice so the right planner is there. Most people who are already in Hanoi prefer to meet at their hotel, and we will come to you.
Do you charge for planning or for a quote?
No. Planning is free until you accept a quote and pay a deposit, including the revisions, which usually run to two or three rounds. The booking page explains what happens after that.
Read in full: Contact.
How to book
Can one person book a private trip?
A solo traveller can book, but the trip is priced as a two-person booking with a single supplement, because vehicles and guides are charged per day rather than per head. On set departures a single traveller pays the single room supplement only, which is much cheaper.
What currency do I pay in?
Quotes and invoices are in US dollars. Bank transfers are accepted in USD; the payment page explains what happens if your bank converts from another currency and who carries the exchange difference.
What happens if a set departure does not fill?
We tell everyone booked at least six weeks before departure and offer either the same trip at the same price with fewer travellers, a date change, or a full refund of everything paid. The booking terms page sets out that undertaking in full.
Do I need my visa before I pay the balance?
No, but you need it before you fly, and e-visa processing for Vietnam can take up to five working days in busy months. We send a reminder with the balance invoice and check passport validity at the same time.
Read in full: How to book.
Angkor and the Mekong
Is two days really enough for Angkor?
For a first visit, yes, if the days are split around the middle of the day as ours are. Two half-days at each end give you about seven hours inside the temples at the two times of day the light and the temperature are both workable.
People who want a third day are usually after specific sites — Koh Ker, Preah Vihear, the Roluos group. We can add one, and it costs a night in Siem Reap and one less night in Battambang.
Do we have to visit Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek?
No. Tell us when you book and we replace the morning with the Royal Palace and the Russian Market. We would rather you skipped it than went and wished you had not.
If you do go, allow the rest of the day to be quiet. We do not schedule anything demanding afterwards, and the afternoon museum visit is optional on the day.
When does the Tonle Sap look like the photographs?
From about mid-August to early December, when the Mekong is high enough to reverse the Tonle Sap river and flood the lake to roughly five times its dry-season area. October is the peak.
From March to May the lake is low, the boats work a dredged channel, and the stilt villages stand over dry mud. We will still take you, but we say in advance what you are getting.
Can it run the other way, Phnom Penh to Siem Reap?
Yes, and it makes sense if your international flights are easier that way. The only change we insist on is keeping Angkor at the end with two full days, rather than arriving at the temples tired on the last morning.
Read in full: Angkor and the Mekong.
Northern Laos, slowly
Is the drive to Phonsavan really eight hours?
Yes, and we have stopped rounding it down. It is 285 kilometres of mountain road with an average speed under 40 kilometres an hour, plus a lunch stop. We leave at 07:30 and arrive between 15:30 and 16:00.
The alternative people ask about is the Luang Prabang to Xieng Khouang flight, which would mean backtracking from Nong Khiaw and then relying on a route that is cancelled often enough that we will not build an itinerary around it.
How do we watch the alms round without being part of the problem?
Stand on the opposite pavement, stay seated or low if you are close, no flash, and do not buy rice from the kerbside sellers to offer yourself unless you are a practising Buddhist and have arranged it properly through your hotel.
Our guide walks you to a spot away from the main tourist stretch on Sakkaline Road and explains this before you go out, at about 05:20. If it still feels intrusive when you are standing there, leaving is the right answer and nobody minds.
How dangerous is the unexploded ordnance?
On this itinerary, very low risk. The jar sites are cleared and marked, the paths between them are cleared, and you stay on them. The people who are hurt are farmers opening new ground and children who pick things up, roughly forty to sixty casualties a year nationally in recent years, down from several hundred in the 1990s.
The practical rule is the one the markers state: walk on the white side of the marker, never step off a path at a jar site, and do not touch metal objects on the ground anywhere in the province.
Could this be done in seven days?
Only by dropping either Nong Khiaw or the Plain of Jars, and both cuts leave a worse trip than a shorter one elsewhere. Luang Prabang, Kuang Si and the Mekong make a decent five-day trip on their own, and we will price that instead rather than compress this.
Read in full: Northern Laos, slowly.
Northern Vietnam on foot
How fit do I actually need to be?
If you walk 15 kilometres on hilly ground at home without it ruining the following day, you are fit enough. The specific thing to train is descent: 550 metres down on loose limestone on day five works muscles that flat training does not, and sore quadriceps on day six is the most common complaint we get.
We ask every walker the same three questions before confirming: the longest walk you have done in the past year, the most ascent, and whether you use walking poles. Nobody has been turned away for the answers, but several routes have been adjusted because of them.
Can I opt out of a walking day and go in the vehicle?
On days six and nine, yes, the vehicle and boat can meet the group at the midpoint. On days four and seven, no. The tracks do not touch a road between the start and the end, and the only way out is to walk it. If you think you may want to opt out, tell us at the booking stage and we will price a version with a second vehicle following.
Is the group really capped at ten?
Yes, and on this route the cap is about the homestays rather than the vehicle. The upstairs rooms in the Ha Giang houses hold ten mattresses with space to walk between them, and eleven means somebody sleeps in the kitchen or the family gives up their own room. We will not do either.
What happens if somebody is injured on a walking day?
The guide carries a first aid kit, a satellite messenger and the numbers for the district health centres at Dong Van, Meo Vac and Cho Ra. A twisted ankle is walked out slowly or carried by two of us to the nearest track, which on day seven could be three hours. Anything worse means the provincial hospital at Ha Giang and, for a serious case, Hanoi, which is a six-hour road transfer. This is the reason we insist on insurance that covers trekking, and we check the policy number before departure.
Read in full: Northern Vietnam on foot.
Vietnam with children
What ages does this actually work for?
Six to fourteen is the band it was built for. Six is the point at which a child can manage the Trang An boat and a full day of moving about in heat; fourteen is roughly where free afternoons start to feel like a waste of a holiday.
Outside that band we will still quote it, but we will tell you which days we would change. With a four-year-old we shorten day four and drop the cycling; with a sixteen-year-old we usually swap a Hoi An day for a day on a motorbike pillion through the Hai Van pass with a driver.
Are interconnecting rooms guaranteed?
Confirmed at the four land hotels, in writing, before you pay the balance. If a hotel cannot hold them we change hotel rather than tell you at check-in. The boat is the exception: a family cabin there means two bedrooms off one lobby with a shared bathroom, and no vessel in Lan Ha has a connecting door in the sense you mean.
How do you handle food with a fussy eater?
We send a note to every hotel and the boat before arrival, and plain steamed rice, noodles without sauce, chicken, bread and fruit are available at every meal on the trip. The cooking class adapts too. What we will not do is arrange a separate Western menu at every stop, because it turns a two-hour lunch into a negotiation and the children usually eat what the family next to them is eating anyway.
Is it safe to cycle with children on these routes?
The Ninh Binh dyke paths and the Hoi An paddy lanes carry farm traffic and scooters at walking pace, not cars. Helmets are provided and worn. We ride with a guide in front and the driver behind in the vehicle, and we do not cycle in the old town of Hoi An during the evening. If a child cannot ride independently, a tandem trailer bike is available at both stops and we need to know two weeks ahead.
Read in full: Vietnam with children.
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